Chanel adjusts his logo with brodge -forming catwalk on show focusing on timeless skirt suit | Chanel

Designers come and go, but Chanel Tweed suit is forever. That was the message from a show that marked the 110th anniversary of Haute Couture at Chanel. The house is in the middle of more than a year of catwalk shows without a designer to take a bow – Virginie Viard got her last performance last May, and her successor, Matthieu Blazy, won’t do her first before in October – so it Works overtime to keep the Chanel name in light.

The catwalk was formed by two wide curved walkways, which together formed double C, which can be immediately recognized as Chanel. But instead of sitting back to the back, as in the logo, the two walkways were teased apart in bridges that curled up and over, and interconnected to form a figure of eight in the form of the infinity symbol.

It was an elegant visual allegory for a business strategy that is focused on maintaining sales and profile during an expanded interregum. Extracted by the scenographer Willo Perron, the designer of Lady Gaga’s Monster Ball Tour and by the floating scene for Rihanna’s 2023 Super Bowl Half-Time Show, the catwalk was installed in the gigantic wrought iron ship in Grand Palais-self a statement of Chanel’s status in the French culture.

The catwalk is designed by Willo Perron. Photography: Gonzalo Fuentes/Reuters

The headline of this collection-a map, sweet, cher-in-clueless take on the skirt suit-got the beam around the world on social media before the first model stepped on the runway.

Kylie Jenner arrived in the Grand Palais in a creamy tweed suit that is accessories with large black sunglasses and a cross-body bag, Gen Z-coded stomach and ankle chains and several inches of bronzed abs between the cropped, braided trimmed jacket and its matching box-pleat skirt.

The first clothes on the runway followed Jenner’s lead: Small skirt suits in white, then cream, then sorbet pastels, worn with bare legs and light slingbacks. Hair was loose or in slick back buns, and each model wore a red lip picked to fit their skin color.

Jennie Kim and Kylie Jenner on the show. Photography: WWD/GETTY Images

Crystal Rock buttons and slim black velvet belts added punctuation. The technical sophistication of Haute Couture Ateliers was displayed in lace embroidered for a trompe l’oeil tweed effect and made chiffon dresses of gravity-fighting ease. Several of the low riding skirts came with satin blouses attached to the clients who prefer not to flash just skin under a cropped jacket.

The youthful spin at Chanel Chimet with Taylor Swift’s recent choice of a short Chanel Tweed Playsuit, worn for an NFL game in Kansas last week. Actress Mikey Madison, who will be wooed by big fashion houses as she prepares to perform as a nominee on Oscars in March, chose a short white Chanel Tweed suit for the Toronto Film Festival’s red carpet in October.

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Blazy, whose appointment was announced in December, is only the fourth designer who has had Creative Director Post in Chanel, after Coco himself, Karl Lagerfeld and Viard.

He will take on the role for the next few months, but due to the long leadership times for big brands, he will not show his first Chanel collection until October. The current collection was created by the internal team that will also design the most important thing ready for wear during the Paris Fashion Week in March, a show scheduled to the banks of Lake Como in May, and another haute couture show in July.